Professor Abena Dove Osseo-Asare

Department of History
University of California, Berkeley

Material Culture

280H: Material Culture 

Fabric is at the heart of cultural production in African spaces. From birth, to initiations, to weddings, to funerals, fabric binds together communities, adorning families, and providing the basis for personal wealth. This course explores emerging research on the social history of textiles and clothing, with special reference to cases in Africa and comparative work in South Asia, the Middle East and Latin America. It seeks to integrate this work with ongoing debates in the field of science and technology studies on innovation, and technology transfer and appropriation.

Through the lens of fabric, we will examine the meanings of diaspora, empire, modernity, post-colonialism and globalization for everyday people.  Case material addresses the history behind fibers, dyes, weaving, and construction techniques, as well as issues of industrialization, intellectual property rights, sustainability, and workplace health. Course participants will also learn to “read” fabrics, clothing, and textile technologies for historical information through museum and field visits.

(next taught Fall 2012)


Selected Readings:

Allman, J. M. (2004). Fashioning Africa: power and the politics of dress. Bloomington, Indiana University Press.

Boateng, B. (2011). The copyright thing doesn't work here: Adinkra and Kente cloth and intellectual property in Ghana. Minneapolis, University of Minnesota Press.


Fair, L. (2001). Pastimes and politics: culture, community, and identity in post-abolition urban Zanzibar,1890-1945. Athens; Oxford [England], Ohio University Press ; J. Currey.

Gott, E. S. and K. Loughran (2010). Contemporary African fashion. Bloomington, IN, Indiana University Press.

Hansen, K. T. (2000). Salaula: the world of secondhand clothing and Zambia. Chicago, University of Chicago Press.

Kumar, P. (forthcoming). The Odyssey of Indigo: Plantations and Science in Colonial India, 1700-1920, Cambridge.


McKinley, C.E. (2011). Indigo: In Search of the Color that Seduced the World. New York, Bloomsbury.

Multi-Media:


Lemelson, D. and J. Lemelson. (1998). "Whole cloth, discovering science and technology through American textile history: an interdisciplinary curriculum intergrating science, technology, and invention with women's, African American, and labor history." 

Les sapeurs du Congo-Brazza - video

Yinka Shonibare



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